About Yakitori
The irresistible aroma of char-grilled chicken, succulent bite-sized skewers bursting with umami, and a flavor profile that pairs perfectly with beer. For Japanese people, "Yakitori" (焼き鳥) is an incredibly familiar and beloved dish, evoking a sense of nostalgia while continuously evolving. Enjoyed everywhere from lively izakayas (Japanese pubs) and bustling street stalls to cozy home dinners, Yakitori's delightful simplicity and surprising depth are now captivating food lovers in North America and beyond.
When Did Yakitori Begin? A History of Skewered Grilling from Wild Birds
The history of Yakitori is remarkably long, though its exact origins are unclear. However, documents from the Heian period (794-1185 AD) mention a dish called "toriyakimono" (grilled bird items), indicating a custom of grilling wild birds. This early "yakitori" typically featured wild game like sparrows, quail, and pheasants, skewered and grilled over charcoal – quite different from the chicken-centric Yakitori of today. By the Edo period (1603-1868), references to "yakitori" and "kushiyaki" (skewered grilling) appeared in cookbooks like Ryori Monogatari and Gorui Nichiyo Ryori Sho, and the preferred ingredient gradually began to shift to chicken.
Meiji to Showa: The Era of Street Stalls and Popular Cuisine
In the Meiji era (1868-1912), skewered and grilled chicken scraps,organ meats (motsu), and even beef and pork organ meats became popular among the working class. Chicken itself was a luxury, so the innovative use of less desirable parts to offer affordable meals fueled the spread of Yakitori culture. Amidst food shortages after World War II,street stalls grilling organ meats over charcoal proliferated in urban centers. From 1945, numerous Yakitori stalls–requiring only simple equipment and readily available ingredients–sprang up in the black markets of areas like Shimbashi and Shinjuku in Tokyo. Then, in the 1950s and 60s (Showa 30s), the introduction of broiler chickens from the United States significantly lowered poultry prices. This made Yakitori even more accessible, cementing its status nationwide as a beloved, hearty, and satisfying everyday food.
The Depth of Yakitori: Diverse Cuts, Diverse Flavors
A key part of Yakitori's allure lies in the distinct character of each cut of chicken. Thigh (momo), breast (mune), skin (kawa), tail (bonjiri), liver (reba), gizzard (sunagimo), neck (seseri), heart (hatsu) – each offers a unique texture and flavor, making it a delight to try them all.
In Japan, seasoning typically falls into two main styles: shio (salt) and tare (a sweet and savory soy-based basting sauce). Shio simply enhances the natural umami of the chicken, while tare coats the skewers and provides a fragrant, caramelized glaze. Both are delicious, and the choice of which to use often comes down to personal preference.
"Negima" – skewers of chicken alternating with pieces of Japanese long onion/Welsh onions (negi) – is an especially popular classic. Interestingly, an anecdote suggests that the original "negima" in the Edo period was actually a dish combining negi with tuna (maguro), revealing some surprising hidden history within Japanese Yakitori!
"Gotouchi Yakitori": Local Styles Across Japan
Yakitori has evolved into unique regional styles across Japan, known as "Gotouchi Yakitori" (local yakitori):
- Muroran (Hokkaido): Here, "yakitori" often refers to skewers of pork and onion, typically served with a dab of karashi (Japanese mustard).
- Imabari (Ehime Prefecture):Ehime Prefecture specializes in "skewerless yakitori," where chicken is pressed and grilled on a hot iron plate – a dynamic style using high heat.
- Fukuoka (Fukuoka Prefecture): Famous for its incredibly crispy chicken skin (torikawa), grilled slowly to perfection.
- Higashimatsuyama (Saitama Prefecture): Known for Yakitori made with pork jowl (kashira), served with a spicy miso paste. In some areas,Yakitori might even refer to grilled pork or beef organ meats, showing that the term is more than just a dish name; it's a reflection of local food culture.
Modern Yakitori: From Street Food to Gourmet
In recent years, Yakitori has transcended its humble origins. It's increasingly recognized as a sophisticated form of Japanese cuisine, featured in specialty restaurants and creative dining establishments that prioritize high-quality ingredients. Using premium jidori (regional free-range chicken breeds like Hinai, Nagoya Cochin, and Satsuma) or other branded chickens, skilled chefs meticulously control the temperature and cooking time for each cut. In their hands, Yakitori has evolved into what could be called "art on a skewer."
Experience Yakitori at Home
This recipe shows how to create authentic Japanese-style Yakitori using a simple frying pan at home and provides step-by-step instructions, from how to skewer the chicken, to making a classic tare sauce, and mastering the key points of grilling.
20 minutes
Yoshiro Takahashi
PROFILE
INGREDIENTS
SERVES 2
Original recipe (1X) yields 2 servings
When scaling the recipe, the ratios of some ingredients may require slight adjustments. Adjust as necessary and season to taste.
- 2 chicken thighs
- 2 stalks of Welsh onions
- 1 tsp. cooking oil
- A3 tbsp. cooking sake
- A3 tbsp. soy sauce
- A3 tbsp. Japanese sweet rice wine (mirin)
- A2 tbsp. sugar
- 5 to 7-inch long bamboo skewers (as needed)
INSTRUCTIONS
- 1
Cut off and discard any excess fat and sinew from the chicken thighs, then cut into large, bite-sized pieces (approx. 3/4 oz. per piece). Slice the Welsh onions into approx. 1-inch cylinders. In a small bowl, mix together cooking sake, soy sauce, Japanese sweet rice wine, and sugar.
- 2
Now assemble the skewers. This recipe will make both chicken-only skewers and “negima” with onions. For the chicken-only skewers, place 4 pieces of meat on a skewer, leaving a little of the skewer sticking out at one end. For the chicken & onion “negima” skewers, first put on a piece of chicken, then an onion, and repeat. Aim to put on 3 pieces of chicken and 2 onions. Continue to make both types of skewers with the remaining meat and onions.
- 3
Heat a frying pan on medium to high heat and coat with cooking oil. Place the skewers comfortably in the pan and cook on all sides until well browned. Remove from the pan.
- 4
Pour the soy sauce mixture into the frying pan and briefly cook on medium heat until it begins to thicken. Return the skewers to the pan and quickly coat all sides with the glaze by turning them over in the pan.
- 5
Turn off the heat as soon as the skewers have achieved a nice glaze and brown color, then plate. (Once the glaze begins to thicken and coat the skewers, make sure that the chicken is cooked through before removing them from the frying pan. If the pan is large enough, all of the skewers can be cooked at the same time. If it is necessary to cook in 2 batches, only use 1/2 of the soy sauce glaze for each batch.)
RecipeID
69
Tips & Notes
・While Yakitori is fundamentally a meat dish, some restaurants in Japan serve versions that are only made with vegetables, some with meat & vegetables, and sometimes even seafood in various regions of Japan.
・In these cases, the word “Yakitori” is sometimes written on the menu in the hiragana syllabary, without the traditional Chinese characters (kanji) that mean “grilled meat.”
・The charcoal grills used in specialty Yakitori restaurants in Japan provide a distinctive and well-loved flavor, but in Japanese homes Yakitori is commonly made by grilling skewers in a frying pan and then seasoning them with salt or a glaze.
・When skewering the meat and onions, place each piece on a cutting board and insert the skewer downward through the middle of each piece as if you were pushing it into the cutting board. This will ensure that you don’t stab your hands!
・Cutting the chicken into smaller, rather than larger, pieces will ensure that they cook thoroughly.
・Be sure to boil down the sauce to thicken it a bit before laying the skewers in the frying pan. This will help it coat the Yakitori more easily.
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Born in 1988 in Kawasaki, Kanagawa Prefecture, I was inspired by my father, a traditional Japanese chef, and learned cooking fundamentals early at my family’s restaurant. After graduating from Senshu University’s Faculty of Law, I worked in sales at Nippon Shokken Co., Ltd., then as a restaurant manager, before completing a professional food coordinator program and starting my career as an independent culinary expert. I hold nine food-related qualifications, including Professional Chef’s License, Sake Sommelier (Kikisake-shi), Certified Sommelier (ANSA), and Vegetable Sommelier, and was the youngest to earn the advanced title of Certified Lecturer in Sake Studies. While rooted in Japanese cuisine that highlights natural flavors, my repertoire spans ethnic, Italian, and organic dishes. In 2015, I joined a project by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries and JICA, promoting Japanese cuisine domestically and in countries such as France, Paraguay, Bangladesh, and Serbia. A passionate triathlete, I have achieved top finishes in domestic competitions, won my age group at the 2018 Tomonoura Triathlon, and represented Japan at the Age Group World Championships in Australia (2018) and Switzerland (2019). Known as “the running chef,” I collaborate with sports brands and health media, advocating the integration of food, health, and sports. Since 2020, I have served as Official Athlete Food Coach for the Japan Para Table Tennis National Team, supporting athletes’ nutrition. In 2022, I became a father and now balance parenthood with my culinary and athletic careers.